The route was approximately 67km, took the metro to station “Pallini”, cycled towards the sea, from Rafina (Ραφήνα) to Nea Makri (Νέα Μάκρη) following the coast, then to Schinias Olympic Rowing center (Ολυμπιακό Κωπηλατοδρόμιο Σχοινιά). From there, inland through the mountains to Marathonas (Μαραθώνας) village and further more inland to Marathonas lake and dam. Finally a few more mountains to go down to Kifisia (Κηφισιά) and take the train back home. The altitude gain was not bad, mostly downhill for the 1st 20km, then flat for another 20km, uphill for the next 20km with 400m. gain and the last 12km a few ups and downs. A total of 720m. gain but it was mostly the heat of 40 degrees Celsius which melted everything 🙂
Getting off the metro in Pallini I had to cycle on a big busy road for a while, through Pikermi until I took a smaller street towards the sea, close to Rafina. I ended up at the seaside south of Nea Makri, at a beach named “Argyra Akti” (Αργυρά Ακτή). It was a small nice beach with pebbles and just a few people bathing, in front of a “taverna” (traditional Greek restaurant). I took a short break enjoying the sea breeze before I continue cycling.
Just a kilometer further, passed through the “Mati Nautical Sports Club” (Ναυτικός Αθλητικός Όμιλος Μάτι Αττικής), a nice marina with sports facilities next to the “Mati” beach. Some kids were swimming and fishing. The wind had started to blow quite strong so a few people were enjoying wind surfing. I made a stop to have lunch on some swings by the sea. Next to them was a sculpture of a woman on top of some fish which resembled dolphins. I was going to take a photo of it when a young teenager -who probably thought I’m a tourist- posed and asked me in broken English to take his photo 😀 Very friendly locals.
I kept on cycling by the sea on Posidonos avenue and soon I reached the beautiful Karla beach. The wind was still blowing strong so there were many waves and no people swimming here, just wind surfing. Just a bit further made a stop at the nice small Nea Makri port.
Just after Nea Makri port there was a short shady walking / bicycle path with palm trees that went by an organized beach with some beach bars and umbrellas. It was a nice break to cycle under the shade as it was getting really hot.
As I was reaching Marathonas, I would have loved to continued cycling by the sea but it was time to leave the coast for a bit as I wanted to visit an archaeological site, the Tomb of the Athenians from the Battle of Marathon.
The Battle of Marathon took place in 490 BC around these plains, during the first Persian invasion of Greece. It was fought between the citizens of Athens, aided by Plataea, and a Persian force commanded by Datis and Artaphernes. The battle was the culmination of the first attempt by Persia, under King Darius I, to subjugate Greece. The Greek army decisively defeated the more numerous Persians, marking a turning point in the Greco-Persian Wars.
Reaching the site you are greeted by Miltiades who was elected to serve as one of the ten generals of that battle and he is the one often credited with devising the tactics that defeated the Persians. For a €3 fee (back then when I visited in 2015, now it is €5) you can check the most important of the remaining monuments on the plain of Marathon, the Marathon Tomb. It is traditionally known as “the Pile”, with 9m. height and 50m. diameter, it covers the bones of the 192 Athenians who fell at the battle of Marathon. Beneath the soil, the excavations have revealed the cremated bones. Inside the tomb, traces of feasting have also been found. According to traditions, the winners collected the dead from the battlefield, put them on a funeral pyre and they attended “perideipnon” (the funeral banquet) to honor their bravery. Outside the tomb, Athenian teenagers offered every year wreaths and sacrifices to the memory of the killed soldiers. (source visitmarathon.gr).
After being awed from being on such a historical place, I went back to continue cycling through the coast. Had another lunch break by the sea under the shade of some trees, avoiding the melting heat.
After some beautiful coastline I reached Schinias Olympic Rowing and Canoeing center (Ολυμπιακό Κωπηλατοδρόμιο Σχοινιά). Built for the Olympic Games of Athens in 2004, with a total length of 2250 meters and a capacity of 14.000 seats, it was once full of life. But now it is completely deserted and falling apart… such a pity for this beautiful place to have such a fate. I went around exploring with not one soul in sight. Searching for a toilet I went inside one of the buildings and found some half-lit toilets in the basement, which gave me the creeps. It felt like playing Resident Evil in virtual reality.
I finally had to say goodbye to the coast and take the inland route uphill for the next 20km heading first to Marathon village. Made a short stop at one of the many small churches churches (Saint George) on the way to rest from the heat. It was an old church which was renovated in 1973.
Entering the village of Marathon I was greeted by a large bronze statue of Nike, the Greek goddess of victory. It is another monument to the fallen of the 490BC Battle of Marathon against the invading Persians. Nike is depicted as a winged woman holding a victory wreath, while her long dress forms deep folds all over her body. It was sculpted by the Greek sculptor Nikos Georgiou and placed there in 2014. The inscription writes in ancient Greek (and English translation) “The Athenians fighting at Marathon, on behalf of all the Greeks, vanquished the force of the gold-clad Persians”.
Just a bit further on the main road I passed by the starting point of the Athens marathon and an interesting piece of art. The legend speaks of the Greek messenger Pheidippides, running to Athens with news of the victory in the battle of Marathon in 490BC. This became the inspiration for this athletic event, introduced at the 1896 Athens Olympics, and originally run between Marathon and Athens. The piece of art is from Japanese artist Masaaki Noda, named “The Spirit of Hermes”. Two metal plates emerge from the base and grow in a helical and spiral arrangement, evoking Hermes’ wings and the Athenian attack. Artists impression is of the day of the battle, the Athenians exceeded themselves against a far more numerous enemy and, ignoring the danger, attacking with dazzling speed, not unlike that of Hermes’ wings. With equally dazzling speed, the young Athenian runner raced against time and covered the 42-kilometre distance at the speed of lightning in order to bring the message of victory to Athens before he died. The sculptures purpose it to initiate a dialogue with the memory of the land.
The road afterwards was a nice uphill for around 7.5km, passing by distant farms and greenhouses, by the edge of Vothonas village to arrive at the beautiful Marathon Dam.
It was a really beautiful day and the sun was really hot so the lake with the dam looked like an oasis surrounded by greenery. Made a stop at the cafe overlooking the dam to refresh myself with some natural orange juice. The dam has only one lane for vehicles so there is a traffic light. It took around three years for it’s construction and it was built by the U.S. company ULEN. The artificial lake of Marathon, was created in 1931 and served as the primary water supply for Athens. The area of the lake is around 10km2, the maximum depth is 54 meters and the maximum height of the dam’s crest is 227 meters above sea level. If you are interested for more info and photos about the Marathon Dam please check my separate post Marathon Dam – Attica, Greece.
After crossing the dam, it was around 17km until Kifissia train station. It started with a nice uphill with little churches here and there. When I reached the top of the hill I was climbing I was rewarded with a nice panoramic view of the lake. Soon afterwards I started descending towards Agios Stefanos with Penteli mountain on the background.
The road going down was quite dangerous. It was very narrow and as it was supposed to be two lanes, if left no space for anything else but the cars. I was sad to witness a cat being hit by a car and loosing her life in front of my eyes. I immediately stopped the bike and tried to go to her but the cars were speeding so fast, I almost got hit by one while trying to reach the cat and had to jump on the narrow sides for safety. The cat had a critical hit on the head with lots of thick dark blood flowing, it was convulsing and then another car went through her and ended her life. I stood in the middle of the road with the hope that the next car will stop (and it did) and I managed to get the dead cat out of the street. There was nowhere to bury her around there so I was very sad to leave her on the side of the street, at least her dead body wouldn’t become splashed again and again.
Kept on going and reached Kifisia where I had a nice break at a cafe with more fresh orange juice and a vegetarian quiche pie. Finally I took the train with a few signs of heatstroke although I kept myself hydrated with endless fluids and power drinks, guess the sun was too strong for a whole full day of cycling. It was a really nice ride (apart of the cat incident), totally recommended!
Additional information
GPS coordinates for places in this post, click on them to be redirected to the exact point in google maps Click on the names to be redirected to their official websites (if applicable).
Pallini train station : 38°00’21.1″N 23°52’10.5″E
Argyra Akti beach, Nea Makri : 38°02’25.5″N 24°00’05.0″E
Mati Nautical Sports Club, Nea Makri : 38°02’47.8″N 23°59’56.5″E
Karla beach, Nea Makri : 38°05’09.7″N 23°59’05.1″E
Nea Makri port : 38°05’17.3″N 23°59’00.3″E
Tumulus of the Athenians at Marathon : 38°07’04.1″N 23°58’42.2″E
Schinias Olympic Rowing and Canoeing center : 38°08’33.4″N 24°00’52.8″E
Saint George church : 38°08’39.0″N 23°58’55.2″E
Nike of Marathon statue : 38°08’57.7″N 23°57’49.7″E
The Spirit of Hermes sculpture : 38°09’06.6″N 23°57’39.1″E
Marathon dam : 38°10’01.7″N 23°54’20.2″E
Kifissia train station : 38°04’26.0″N 23°48’28.9″E
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